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+ Building MicroPeak Boards
+ Keith Packard
+ 2013-01-11
+
+Here's the process I'm using to build MicroPeak boards. I build 15
+boards at a time.
+
+1. Apply paste to the boards.
+
+ 1.1 Check the stencil alignment with a board. Somehow, it always
+ moves. Adjust and reaffix as necessary. The stencil is hinged on
+ the side of the board containing the ATtiny85 so that the tiny
+ ATtiny85 pads are the most carefully aligned.
+
+ 1.2 Load a board.
+
+ 1.3 Apply a bead of paste, on the far side of the ATtiny85 CPU. Spread
+ paste with the blade nearly parallel to the board. Then scrape
+ clean with the blade perpendicular to the board.
+
+ 1.4 Clean the stencil every few boards to keep it from sticking to the
+ boards
+
+2. Load boards
+
+ 2.1 Prep parts for five boards. I group them as they'll be installed
+ on the board. There are few enough that it's easy to tell where
+ every part goes.
+
+ 2.2 Load parts on each board. I do them in this order:
+
+ 1. 100k reset capacitor
+ 2. 470 LED current limiting capacitor
+ 3. Power switch
+ 4. CPU
+ 5. CPU bypass cap
+ 6. LED
+ 7. baro bypass cap
+ 8. baro sensor
+ 9. 4.7k SPI resistor
+
+2.3 After five boards are loaded, prep parts for the next five.
+
+3. Reflow boards
+
+ 3.1 Group boards in a 3x5 array in the middle of the griddle
+
+ 3.2 Preheat to 100C.
+
+ 3.3 Turn off griddle power. Let it sit for 1 minute
+
+ 3.4 Turn power back on and wait for all parts to reflow
+
+ 3.5 Let it sit for 10 seconds after the last part reflows
+
+ 3.6 Turn off power
+
+ 3.7 Let parts cool on the griddle to below 100C
+
+4. Flash and self-test
+
+ 4.1 Connect pogo-pin fixture to power supply and AVR programmer
+
+ 4.2 Turn on power supply
+
+ 4.3 Insert board, run 'make load' to flash. Note that a previously
+ flashed board will need 'make load-slow' to handle the 250kHz
+ clock speed.
+
+ 4.4 Wait for the flashing to complete. Check for a single orange LED
+ flash which signals self test complete.
+
+5. Attach battery holders
+
+ 5.1 Flow a small amount of solder onto the center conductor pad so
+ that it is raised high enough to hit the battery terminal.
+
+ 5.2 Take the metal battery holder cage, align to the circuit board and
+ clamp the ATtiny85 end in a vise whose jaws are horizontal. This
+ end has enough board surface on the parts side to allow clamping,
+ especially if you align the bypass cap inside a gap in the vise
+ jaws.
+
+ 5.3 Press down on the battery holder so that the exposed terminal
+ makes firm contact with the PCB pad. Solder in place.
+
+ 5.4 Remove from vise.
+
+ 5.5 With the vise jaws vertical again, place the board in the end of
+ the vise with the remaining battery holder terminal exposed.
+
+ 5.6 Solder in place.
+
+ 5.7 Load battery into plastic tray, install in battery holder
+
+6. System test
+
+ 6.1 Power the board on. Make sure the LED blinks once
+
+ 6.2 Insert into barometric testing chamber (35cc syringe)
+
+ 6.3 Move plunger to 10cc mark. Insert plug
+
+ 6.4 Wait for the altimeter to be ready for boost detect
+
+ 6.5 Increase volume from 10cc to 20cc (halving pressure)
+
+ 6.6 Make sure altimeter registers boost detect by blinking
+ quickly.
+
+ 6.7 Wait 2 seconds, then decrease volume back to 10cc
+
+ 6.8 Wait for altimeter to indicate landing by blinking out
+ maximum height
+
+ 6.9 Verify that maximum height is approximately 5500m
+
+ 6.10 Turn off power
+
+7. Package
+
+ 7.1 Cut 1cm x 4cm piece of closed-cell foam
+
+ 7.2 Insert foam into plastic bag
+
+ 7.3 Push foam to bottom of bag with product card
+
+ 7.4 Drop board into bag, move alongside foam
+
+ 7.5 Push air out of bag and seal