W9YA's Elegant Launch Controller

From: Bdale Garbee Date: Fri, 11 Jun 2010 16:17:57 +0000 (-0600) Subject: add Bob Finch's launcher web site which I've agreed to host X-Git-Url: https://git.gag.com/?p=web%2Fgag.com;a=commitdiff_plain;h=c8ccfc7deb5debcad3cc3f442f16269ccb5963b7 add Bob Finch's launcher web site which I've agreed to host --- diff --git a/bfinch/launcher/CELstart-rocket.png b/bfinch/launcher/CELstart-rocket.png new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f920b0f Binary files /dev/null and b/bfinch/launcher/CELstart-rocket.png differ diff --git a/bfinch/launcher/Construction.html b/bfinch/launcher/Construction.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..03f49dc --- /dev/null +++ b/bfinch/launcher/Construction.html @@ -0,0 +1,79 @@ + + + + + W9YA's Elegant Launch Controller + + + + + +

The
W9YA +Elegant Launch Controller

The Rocketeer's favorite +Launch Controller System

+ + + + + + + + + + + +

+ +

+ + +

+ +

+Construction; +

+

+Begin construction by testing for parts fit and placement. Now is the time to make sure you have sufficient mounting hardware and that the parts will fit where you want to place them. Besides the usual hand tools a dremel tool will come in VERY handy for mounting the duplex electrical socket. The outlet cover will cover any minor imperfections in the cutout you make. Take your time with this part of the construction as the results will last a long time. +

+The wiring diagram is a standard electrical schematic. Dots indicate electrical connections with lines to indicate current paths and the boxes are for the buzzers. The switches are indicated by the disconnected lines between two (or three dots with a perpendicular dashed lines going through the center of the three dots). The solid line in each switch is what is known as the 'Normally Closed' (NC) position. The other is known as the 'Normally Open' (NO) position. The other dot is called the 'Common" connection. The relay has two parts, the coil indicated by the circular lines that kind of look like a coil of wire with two lines immediately adjacent to the coil to represent the coil's magnetic core material, and the relay's switch is indicated much like the other switches except the dashed line extends to the coil's two horizontal lines. The diodes are marked with a band to indicate the cathode or banded side of the device. On the schematic the diodes look like this band touching the point of a filled in triangle. Removable connections (like the electrical cord and socket) are indicated by the arrows made from two small lines. The fuse is indicated by a wavy line. The two triangles with 'AA" inside of them represent two places in the circuit that are connected together. The other two triangles with 'BB" indicate another two places on the schematic that could not easily have had a line drawn between them. +

The 12 position terminal strip is used to allow connections between various parts. There are two rows of 12 screw heads. The wiring is inserted under the screws which clamp down on the wiring to secure a stripped piece of wire, or a bare component lead (such as the diodes). In some cases, such as the large number of connections to the battery negative pole, various tie points like the safety switch studs and the test switch's common stud could be used to facilitate more than one piece of wire. The idea is to have the wire (or a part of a switch,) between any dots that are connected by a line. Tugging and stressing these screw-based connections now will save hours of time later troubleshooting intermittent connections. +

The duplex outlet can be used in two different ways. Nominally you can use it for two sets of igniter leads. Used this way the ground lug is not used at all as the igniter leads should be wired to just the hot and neutral of the two conductor plug. Cutthe 50 foot extension cable into two pieces with the cut being made 10 -15 feet from the socket (female) end. This gives you a male end coming from the Remote Unit and the female end going into the Relay/Pad Unit. +

The other way to use this outlet is to break the 'link' between the two outlets hot connector screws. Doing this allows you to use one of the outlets as the input from the cabling connected to the Remote Unit. In this case you will be using the ground connection as indicated in the schematic diagram. +

A few of other things about the construction phase you will need to know. The LEDs (light emitting diodes) in the toggle switche(s) **must** be removed for proper operation. I just took off the shaft cover and yanked them out. If you forget to do this, you will find the unit does not operate correctly even though everything else is correct. +

+I also elected to use crimp terminals and lugs of various sizes to avoid the use of solder and yet assure clean and neat connections. If you decide to use crimps be sure to tug hard on each one after you make it, as it is easy to create 'intermittent' connection problems that are hard to troubleshoot later. +

+Be sure to orient and wire the toggle switches with the covers so that closing the cover disarms the each unit. This is a safety issue and should NOT be changed. +

+

+

+Rocket Graphics courtesy of the Crystal Space Community. +

+ + diff --git a/bfinch/launcher/Design_Goals.html b/bfinch/launcher/Design_Goals.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fb461f8 --- /dev/null +++ b/bfinch/launcher/Design_Goals.html @@ -0,0 +1,68 @@ + + + + + W9YA's Elegant Launch Controller + + + + + +

The
W9YA +Elegant Launch Controller

The Rocketeer's favorite +Launch Controller System

+ + + + + + + + + + + +

+ +

+ +

+Design Goals; +

+- Complete safety when used in the correct manner. i.e. NO surprise ignitions.
+- Single battery design.
+- Uses only single pole switches for reliability and safety.
+- Parts availability from chain store local outlets that also have internet ordering.
+- Low cost and minimal parts count without sacrificing either reliability or ruggedness.
+- LOW CURRENT igniter (continuity) testing; less than 10ma with a 12 volt battery.
+- Continuity sounders at both the pad and launch units.
+- Full diagnostics of both units AND the cabling without the need for additional test equipment.
+- High current paths are direct with only the relay contacts and a high-current safety switch between the battery and the igniter.
+- Sounders at both ends warn about incorrect operation, including launch key insertion, in a direct and easy to understand manner.
+- Operational range of 750-1000 feet is possible using 16 gauge 3 conductor power cable. Longer range with simple range extenders.
+- Either of the two units may be used standalone for low power launches. (Requires cable adapters.)
+

+

+Rocket Graphics courtesy of the Crystal Space Community. +

+ + diff --git a/bfinch/launcher/NEWER_ComComposite_remote_launcher_new_added_coil_isolation.pdf b/bfinch/launcher/NEWER_ComComposite_remote_launcher_new_added_coil_isolation.pdf new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b03b193 Binary files /dev/null and b/bfinch/launcher/NEWER_ComComposite_remote_launcher_new_added_coil_isolation.pdf differ diff --git a/bfinch/launcher/Parts_List.html b/bfinch/launcher/Parts_List.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7c81c69 --- /dev/null +++ b/bfinch/launcher/Parts_List.html @@ -0,0 +1,98 @@ + + + + + W9YA's Elegant Launch Controller + + + + + +

The
W9YA +Elegant Launch Controller

The Rocketeer's favorite +Launch Controller System

+ + + + + + + + + + + +

+ +

+ + +

+ +

+Parts List; +

+- 16 Gauge (Light Duty), 3 Conductor Electrical Extension Cord, 100 foot lengths as needed.
+- 16 Gauge (Light Duty), 3 Conductor Electrical Extension Cord, 50 foot length
+- Leviton R40-115PR Vacuum Cleaner 2 Conductor Electrical Plug - Used for the igniter leads removable connection.(Will need to be modified)
+- Leviton or Cooper Standard 115v/15amp Duplex Electrical Outlet
+- Leviton (or other) Standard Duplex Outlet Cover +- U.S General (Harbor Freight) Battery Cut-Off Switch, Model #92688 - Used for the safety switch in the Relay/Pad Unit.
+- Harbor Freight Model #97350 Toggle Switch w/ Carbon Fiber Cover - Used for the Standalone switch on the optional Extension box.(Will need to be modified.)
+- Harbor Freight Model #42292-2VGA 12v Float Charger
+- Harbor Freight Model #37957-4VGA Electrical Clip assortment
+- Radio Shack Model 275-0001 12v/40Amp Automotive Relay
+- Radio Shack Model 274-679 12 Position, European Style, Terminal Strip - Relay/Pad Unit
+- Radio Shack Model 275-0601 Spst Panel Mount Toggle Switch with Safety Cover - Use this for the Arm/Disarm switch on the Relay/Pad Unit. (Will need to be modified)
+- Radio Shack Model 275-609 Spst Momentary Pushbutton Switches (2 per package) - Use one for the launch switch on the Remote Unit and one for the Test switch on the Relay/Pad Unit.)
+- Radio Shack Model 273-060 OR 273-060A 12v DC Piezo Buzzer (Steady tone) ** 2 REQUIRED
+- Radio Shack Model 273-066 12v DC Piezo Buzzer (Pulsing tone)
+- Radio Shack Model 276-1104 1N4005 Diodes ** 5 REQUIRED
+- Radio Shack Model 270-1803 5x2.5x2 Project Enclosure (Remote Unit)
+- Radio Shack Model 270-1807 7x5x3 Project Enclosure (Relay/Pad Unit)
+- Radio Shack Model 270-015 Mini-Blade fuse holder (In-Line style)
+- Radio Shack Model 274-0252 1/4" Mono Phone Jacks - Used as the stationary part of the RSO's Interlock switch.
+- Radio Shack Model 274-1536 1/4" Mono Phone Plugs (Will need to be modified by shorting the two connections together inside the plug's plastic cap.) - Used as the removable part of the RSO's Interlock switch.
+- 14 gauge stranded jacketed electrical/electronic wire (Typically copper or tinned copper), 15 feet - Used for connections inside the boxes.
+- Misc spare fuses, 15 amp recommended
+- Gel cell for battery source. 12volt DC and 7 amp (12v/7a) is o.k. 10 to 20 amp preferred.
+

+

+Substitutions; +

+

+One of the more interesting aspects of this design is that it can be changed easily once understood. One thing I could not find easily at the local stores was a small keyswitch that would fit the Remote Unit's project box size I chose. I could have elected to do without this popular style interlock switch and just use a missile-launch-style switch with a disarming guard cover. If I felt the need to assure the switch isn't operated from the Remote/LCO position when I am at the Pad end of things I can always easily unplug the Remote Panel/Box and carry it out to the pad much like the key from the keyswitch can be hand carried out to the pad area to assure no unexpected launches when working near the rockets. Tom Beach suggested that I use a phone plug as the safety switch, and so I modified one by shorting a 1/4 inch two-conductor one internally and that works quite well. +

I elected to use a 12.5 amp/hour gel-cell battery to power the unit so I used 14 gauge wiring and a 15 amp fuse and appropriate holder. If you decide to use a bigger battery to ignite your large clusters, be sure to upgrade the fuse, the wire gauge for the current, and your alligator clips for battery connection. If you need a tremendous amount of current (more than 40 amps,) you will also need a higher current relay and perhaps higher rated toggle and pushbutton switches. Above 60 amps you will need to examine every part in this unit. What you will need to upgrade will depend on how far above 60 amps you want to go. +

+You can choose to change the size of the boxes, use metal toggle switches for extra long life, and so forth. I recommend not removing the access cover from the arming switch as this can be used as an immediately accessed safety by simply closing the cover. Whatever you decide to do that modifies the parts used or the design itself is your decision, but if you change the design or the parts used YOU assume liability for any resulting loss is safety. Please be careful not to downgrade the ratings on any parts. The high-current safety switch used on the pad/relay box should NOT be replaced as this is a robust and very high current switch and you might run into safety problems by switching this for something smaller. (Fortunately this launcher's design and test procedure will alert you during pre-flight testing if there are welded switch contacts as a result of using an underrated switch !) +

+I was told that Radio Shack no longer offers the three buzzer parts from their website. However Radio Shack merely changed the numbers associated with these parts. Nonetheless substitutions can be made HOWEVER be sure to get units that do NOT use more than 4 ma current in operation and that will reliably operate over a range of at least 4 to 24 volts. Successful alerts and the low current operational features of this unit are dependent on proper substitution of these critical parts. +

+Rocket Graphics courtesy of the Crystal Space Community. +

+ + diff --git a/bfinch/launcher/Testing_Diagnostics.html b/bfinch/launcher/Testing_Diagnostics.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..87b7062 --- /dev/null +++ b/bfinch/launcher/Testing_Diagnostics.html @@ -0,0 +1,97 @@ + + + + + W9YA's Elegant Launch Controller + + + + + +

The
W9YA +Elegant Launch Controller

The Rocketeer's favorite +Launch Controller System

+ + + + + + + + + + + +

+ +

+ +

+

TESTING; +

+

Testing is done in four basic stages. In all the stages you will be manipulating the Pad/Relay unit's test, arm/disarm, and Safety switches. You will be listening for NO, Steady, FAST pulsed and SLOW pulsed sounds as well as listening for the relay to be in-active (no clicking sound) except when you simulate an actual igniter firing. There is a Diagnostics listing below in case the units or cabling fails these tests. +

The basic test routine: remove the safety key and toggle the arming switch between the arm and disarm position. You should hear no sounds from either of the piezo buzzers OR the relay itself clicking. Do this again with the test switch pressed. In the disarmed position you should hear the steady toned buzzer. In the armed postion you should NOT hear any sounds (including the relay clicking) when pressing the test button. Finally insert the safety key and turn it 1/4 turn clockwise until it locks into place. There should be no sound in the disarmed position and the Pulsed piezo buzzer should be pulsing at a slow rate ONLY when the toggle switch is in the armed position. The relay should not make any clicking noise at any TIME. REPEAT these tests with the remote cabling attached but without the Remote Unit being plugged in. +

For the second stage of testing place the Remote Unit's interlock switch in the off position and then plug the Unit into the remote cabling. Again you should only hear the steady buzzer when the test button is pressed in the disarmed position. And the ONLY time the pulsed buzzer should be making a sound is when the safety key is inserted and the toggle switch is in the armed position. If in ANY of these stages the tests give other results disconnect the Remote Unit and test again to decide if the problem is in the cabling or the Remote Unit. For a resolution consult the Diagnostics listing below for the probable causes/remedies. +

In the third stage insert the igniter cabling and test with the leads disconnected. Test again for the same results as above. If all is o.k., place the arming switch into the armed postion, remove the safety key, short the igniter end of the cabling, and then test for a buzzer sound when the test button is pushed. This tests the cabling for both opens and shorts AND it is the way you do igniter continuity testing before you insert the safety key and prepare to leave the pad area. The Relay/Pad unit will make a racket with both buzzers going off with the pulsed buzzer going at 2 -3 times it's normal rate if you have an igniter hooked up (or the igniter leads shorted) and the safety key in while the Arming switch is in the DISARMED position. The Remote Unit will also be making a screeching sound from it's (continuity) buzzer instead of the steady igniter continuity sound. +

In the fourth stage disconnect the short on the igniter leads, toggle the safety switch on the Remote Unit into the firing position and hit the launch button. This is the ONLY time you should be hearing the relay clicking on. Go ahead and fire an igniter to see how well it all works if you would like to see how well it works. Just be sure to do this in a safe area outside. +

+

+

+DIAGNOSTIC LISTING; +

+

+ INCORRECT OPERATION: +

+- Arming switch in Disarmed position, safety key out, and Test button NOT pushed in with a Steady sound = Hot lead of cabling shorted to either Ground or Neutral on Remote Unit and/or cabling. *** OR the LCO/Interlock-Launch "key" is inserted !
+- Arming switch in Armed position, safety key out, and Test button NOT pushed in with a Pulsed sound plus Relay "clicked" into firing position = Hot to Ground short on the Remote Unit or cabling.
+- Arming switch in Armed position, safety key out, and the Test Button pushed in with a Pulsed sound and/or the Relay engaged ("clicked") into firing position = Neutral to Ground short on the Remote Unit and/or in the cabling OR the igniter leads are shorted.
+- Safety Key in firing postion and BOTH buzzers making noises (a fast pulsing buzzing sound from the Pad/relay box) = Igniter leads hooked up OR shorted AND the arming switch in disarm postion.
+- A shrill sound instead of a steady sound from the Remote Unit = As above, arming switch in disarmed postion with Relay/Pad Unit's safety switch in firing position and igniter leads connected to an igniter or shorted.
+- No sound when arming switch in disarm, the safety switch key removed, and the test button pushed = Battery hooked up backwards AND/OR fuse blown.
+

+ CORRECT OPERATION: +

+- Arming switch in Disarmed position, safety key removed, and steady buzz ONLY when Test button is pushed in = Good fuse, Remote Unit is in a safe condition, and the battery is hooked up with correct polarity.
+- Arming switch in the Armed position, safety key removed, and no sounds when Test button is NOT pushed in = Good cabling, the Remote Unit is in a correct and in a safe condition, and an igniter is not hooked up.
+- Arming switch in the Armed position, safety key removed, and a steady buzzer sound ONLY when Test button is pushed in = Good cabling, the Remote Unit is in a correct and in a safe condition, and an igniter is hooked up and checks good for continuity.
+

+

+

+USAGE; +

+

+While at the pad location start with the pad unit's safety key removed and the arming switch in the disarm position. Follow each line of the procedure listed at the bottom of the Schematic continuing to the next line ONLY when the indication is o.k. IF you do not get an "o.k", check the Diagnostic listing above to clear the problem. +

+Next after clearing the pad area and with approval of the LCO and/or the RSO, the interlock switch at the remote can be enabled. If you get an audible indication that the circuits are good then countdown may proceed followed by pressing the launch button to start ignition. +

+Rocket Graphics courtesy of the Crystal Space Community. +

+ + diff --git a/bfinch/launcher/index.html b/bfinch/launcher/index.html new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b0530fc --- /dev/null +++ b/bfinch/launcher/index.html @@ -0,0 +1,100 @@ + + + + + W9YA's Elegant Launch Controller + + + + + +

The
W9YA +Elegant Launch Controller

The Rocketeer's favorite +Launch Controller System

+ + + + + + + + + + + +

+ +

+ + +

+ +

+ + ROCKETRY IS AN INHERENTLY DANGEROUS ACTIVITY. I CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ELECTING TO USE THIS CONTROLLER AND HAVING AN ACCIDENT OR DEATH WHILE SO ENGAGED. BY USING THIS LAUNCH CONTROLLER DESIGN, IN PART OR IN WHOLE, YOU AND YOU ALONE TAKE FULL RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS AND AGREE TO HOLD NO ONE ELSE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY CONSEQUENCES. + +

+
+Overview; +
+

+With the opening of our club's new private research field a couple of hours' drive away, the need for personal launch equipment became a requirement as the club's trailer would be left in storage for these launch dates. Our club's superlative launch controller system, designed by Ken Goldstein and Tony Lazarro, would be left behind along with the pads and other heavy equipment. I wanted to be able to use something as capable, safe, and as simple as Ken and Tony's design. +

+A quick look through the offerings on the internet turned up many useful designs that although functional did not offer up the same level of safety and ease of use that what I was looking for in a design. None of them seemed to offer anything other than the most basic of cabling and system diagnostics in case something wasn't right. And a lot of them required a battery at both the Remote Unit at the LCO position and at the Relay Unit at the Launch Pad position. Most of all I wanted a HPR launch system that didn't require that I give up ANY of the continuity or safety features of the average model rocket launch system. +

+I came up with this design over the course of a few nights playing with Xcircuit. I choose the name 'elegant" as this controller is what an engineer would refer to as an 'elegant design'; It contains no extra parts to achieve the 'Design Goals' and is a simple yet fully functional design. Even inexperienced rocketeers can tell from the alert sounds when some switch is in the wrong postion or there isn't continuity. +

+Two units have been built to date using the just the circuit schematic by experienced engineers. They have been used at at least ten launches on a variety of high power, mid power, and low power rockets without any surprises. Both have worked correctly and went together quickly. I have included additional information on this web-site to make it easy for anyone with basic rocketry construction skills to complete this project. +

+The information on this web-site is copyrighted and I reserve all rights to this design. However you are free to make one and use it for your own amusement. +

+

+

+Credits and Help; +

+Good results are seldom the efforts of one person and this undetaking is no exception to that rule. I would like to thank the people that helped me along the way to completing this work; +

+Ken Goldstein and Tony Lazarro's club launch controller system was a tour-de-force in elegant design and an inspiration to my efforts. Their un-selfish sharing of the information and schematics are benefits to the club. The equipment has been both durable and to the point. +

+Bill Beggs for encouraging me to get involved in any way that I can with the club. Sometimes he regrets this, but that is wholly my fault. +

+Nathan Dalrymple for willing to be a guinea pig and build the second (beta) unit. He didn't even hesitate a second and was a great partner during this project. He is also a great photographer and is credited with the construction photos. +

+Kevin Small for helping me with photos and early testing on a very inhospitably cold launch date in February. I did all the complaining, (He did none.) +

+Jim Sauer for seeing the merit of this design and asking to get involved with building a third unit. His interaction with his middle school students and what he achieves with them is a source on continual wonderment to me. Jim also has given me good feedback on part sourcing issues. +

+Dave Founds with the Air Force's Research Labs (AFRL) at Kirkland Air Force Base for his effusive praise of this launch controller design. He is the reason the information is being made available here. +

+Ronda Cole for helping me continue my interest in rocketry by insisting that I develop a teaching curriculum of my own instead of using her work at the AFRL's La Luz Academy. She had faith in me and it was welcomed. +

+

+Rocket Graphics courtesy of the Crystal Space Community. +

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