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• Design Goals

• The Design Schematic

• Parts List

• Construction Info and Notes

• Testing, Diagnostics, and Usage Procedures

TESTING;

Testing is done in four basic stages. In all the stages you will be manipulating the Pad/Relay unit's test, arm/disarm, and Safety switches. You will be listening for NO, Steady, FAST pulsed and SLOW pulsed sounds as well as listening for the relay to be in-active (no clicking sound) except when you simulate an actual igniter firing. There is a Diagnostics listing below in case the units or cabling fails these tests.

The basic test routine: remove the safety key and toggle the arming switch between the arm and disarm position. You should hear no sounds from either of the piezo buzzers OR the relay itself clicking. Do this again with the test switch pressed. In the disarmed position you should hear the steady toned buzzer. In the armed postion you should NOT hear any sounds (including the relay clicking) when pressing the test button. Finally insert the safety key and turn it 1/4 turn clockwise until it locks into place. There should be no sound in the disarmed position and the Pulsed piezo buzzer should be pulsing at a slow rate ONLY when the toggle switch is in the armed position. The relay should not make any clicking noise at any TIME. REPEAT these tests with the remote cabling attached but without the Remote Unit being plugged in.

For the second stage of testing place the Remote Unit's interlock switch in the off position and then plug the Unit into the remote cabling. Again you should only hear the steady buzzer when the test button is pressed in the disarmed position. And the ONLY time the pulsed buzzer should be making a sound is when the safety key is inserted and the toggle switch is in the armed position. If in ANY of these stages the tests give other results disconnect the Remote Unit and test again to decide if the problem is in the cabling or the Remote Unit. For a resolution consult the Diagnostics listing below for the probable causes/remedies.

In the third stage insert the igniter cabling and test with the leads disconnected. Test again for the same results as above. If all is o.k., place the arming switch into the armed postion, remove the safety key, short the igniter end of the cabling, and then test for a buzzer sound when the test button is pushed. This tests the cabling for both opens and shorts AND it is the way you do igniter continuity testing before you insert the safety key and prepare to leave the pad area. The Relay/Pad unit will make a racket with both buzzers going off with the pulsed buzzer going at 2 -3 times it's normal rate if you have an igniter hooked up (or the igniter leads shorted) and the safety key in while the Arming switch is in the DISARMED position. The Remote Unit will also be making a screeching sound from it's (continuity) buzzer instead of the steady igniter continuity sound.

In the fourth stage disconnect the short on the igniter leads, toggle the safety switch on the Remote Unit into the firing position and hit the launch button. This is the ONLY time you should be hearing the relay clicking on. Go ahead and fire an igniter to see how well it all works if you would like to see how well it works. Just be sure to do this in a safe area outside.

DIAGNOSTIC LISTING;

    INCORRECT OPERATION:

- Arming switch in Disarmed position, safety key out, and Test button NOT pushed in with a Steady sound = Hot lead of cabling shorted to either Ground or Neutral on Remote Unit and/or cabling. *** OR the LCO/Interlock-Launch "key" is inserted !
- Arming switch in Armed position, safety key out, and Test button NOT pushed in with a Pulsed sound plus Relay "clicked" into firing position = Hot to Ground short on the Remote Unit or cabling.
- Arming switch in Armed position, safety key out, and the Test Button pushed in with a Pulsed sound and/or the Relay engaged ("clicked") into firing position = Neutral to Ground short on the Remote Unit and/or in the cabling OR the igniter leads are shorted.
- Safety Key in firing postion and BOTH buzzers making noises (a fast pulsing buzzing sound from the Pad/relay box) = Igniter leads hooked up OR shorted AND the arming switch in disarm postion.
- A shrill sound instead of a steady sound from the Remote Unit = As above, arming switch in disarmed postion with Relay/Pad Unit's safety switch in firing position and igniter leads connected to an igniter or shorted.
- No sound when arming switch in disarm, the safety switch key removed, and the test button pushed = Battery hooked up backwards AND/OR fuse blown.


    CORRECT OPERATION:

- Arming switch in Disarmed position, safety key removed, and steady buzz ONLY when Test button is pushed in = Good fuse, Remote Unit is in a safe condition, and the battery is hooked up with correct polarity.
- Arming switch in the Armed position, safety key removed, and no sounds when Test button is NOT pushed in = Good cabling, the Remote Unit is in a correct and in a safe condition, and an igniter is not hooked up.
- Arming switch in the Armed position, safety key removed, and a steady buzzer sound ONLY when Test button is pushed in = Good cabling, the Remote Unit is in a correct and in a safe condition, and an igniter is hooked up and checks good for continuity.

USAGE;

While at the pad location start with the pad unit's safety key removed and the arming switch in the disarm position. Follow each line of the procedure listed at the bottom of the Schematic continuing to the next line ONLY when the indication is o.k. IF you do not get an "o.k", check the Diagnostic listing above to clear the problem.

Next after clearing the pad area and with approval of the LCO and/or the RSO, the interlock switch at the remote can be enabled. If you get an audible indication that the circuits are good then countdown may proceed followed by pressing the launch button to start ignition.