From: Bdale Garbee Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2012 18:03:32 +0000 (-0600) Subject: initial ultimaker page created X-Git-Url: https://git.gag.com/?p=web%2Fgag.com;a=commitdiff_plain;h=611521f92d19eed86bbbd21d723c35e4906e4522 initial ultimaker page created --- diff --git a/homeshop/ultimaker/index.mdwn b/homeshop/ultimaker/index.mdwn new file mode 100644 index 0000000..75a96aa --- /dev/null +++ b/homeshop/ultimaker/index.mdwn @@ -0,0 +1,59 @@ +# Ultimaker + +A few quick notes about our 3D printing setup. On advice from our good +friend [Vik Oliver](http://diamondage.co.nz/) in New Zealand, we decided +to start with an [Ultimaker](http://ultimaker.com/) kit. + +## Software ## + +We primarily drive our Ultimaker with [Cura](http://daid.github.com/Cura/). + +So far, everything we've printed has been designed by someone else, but we +expect to use +[OpenSCAD](http://www.openscad.org/) and +[FreeCAD](http://sourceforge.net/apps/mediawiki/free-cad) +to design things in the future. + +## Upgrades ## + +Here are the upgrades we've made so far to the hardware: + + * Redesigned the hot-end bowden tube clamp. Apparently lots of people have + trouble with the stock design, and the most popular upgrade path is to + print [Owen's Bowden Clamp](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11864). That + would have been fine if we could keep the printer going long enough! In + the end, I found a brass 1/4" OD compression to 1/8" MIP adapter at + our local [Lowes](http://www.lowes.com/pd_25605-104-A-22_0__?Ntt=a-22&productId=3371688&rpp=16) to use instead. Since I own a set of taps that includes + one compatible with 1/8" MIP, it was a simple matter to tap the hole in + the top plywood plate on the "hot end", then use a 1/4" drill to open up + the hole in the MIP end of the adapter so that the plastic Bowden tube + could slide all the way through the adapter. We discarded the brass tubing + insert, and used the compression ring and nut to clamp down on the tubing + after getting everthing adjusted just right. Works perfectly! + + * Printed an improved fan duct / shroud for the hot end. The stock fan + shroud allows air to blow directly on the nozzle, which was giving us fits + trying to figure out what the right printing temps were. We ended up + printing one of [Owen's Fan Ducts](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13625), + specifically the "more clearance front nozzle" version, and despite the + fact that it came out pretty rough, it works brilliantly. + + * Printed an improved + [z-axis stop fine adjuster](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11033), + because the stock mechanical switch was just too hard to adjust, and we + got tired of having to manually tweak the Z axis leadscrew at the start + of every print. This isn't installed yet, but we hope it will be just what + we need! + +## Issues ## + +Notes about things learned or observed along the way: + +* Keep the machine tight! Any looseness in the belts, stepper mounting bolts, + t-nut and screw combinations holding things together, etc, will make the + machine "sloppy" and lead to crappy results. + +## Future Plans ## + +We're actually pretty happy with how the printer is working now .. will add +more here as we learn more with it!